Recipe LXXXV - Cooking with Vegetables II: the Savoy Cabbage

Sorry for the recent silence, I was in Prague for a week over New Year and as usual had an absolute ball. Lots of food, drink and fun was had by all. I had the good fortune of spending one evening in a Czech restaurant called Blatnice (www.blatnice.com), one of the oldest restaurants in Prague. From the outside, even with the period between Christmas and New Year making it emptier than usual, it still had a very pleasant atmosphere, so we ventured inside. It did not disappoint. The one thing that Czechs know how to do it cook meat and vegetables in a way attractive to everyone from young to old. This restaurant excels in that, and their cabbage is no exception. I am a big believer in a balanced diet, and would in no way condone the eating of this vegetable alone, so don't forget to choose your meat and potatoes well, otherwise you'll be as anaemic as all those crazy vegans and other bunny-kissing nutcases!



Ingredients:
1 Savoy cabbage
A tablespoonful of caraway seeds
20cl white wine vinegar or table vinegar
Some sugar to taste
Some salt to taste
For the binding later:
50g butter
50g flour
Some milk



Instructions:
Take your cabbage and cut it into centimetre-wide strips no longer than 10 cm. Put them into a bowl and pour on the caraway seeds. Mix them up well then add the vinegar and some sugar and salt. Toss the ingredients really well and leave them aside for a while. Now is the time to make all the other things you wish to put with it. I made roast pork ribs with roast potatoes, as pork goes really well with this type of cabbage.
Put your cabbage and the excess vinegar into a high-sided pan with lid and put it on a low heat for up to half an hour.



Now you need to make roux. This is quite easy - it is half-way to making Béchamel sauce. Take your butter and put it in the high-sided pan that you have cleaned out and dried. Once it is melted, add the flour, stirring it in as much as possible until it turns into a proper consistency. Add a little milk to keep it slightly fluid and to stop it from burning. The idea is that it is not a sauce, but a coating.



Pour it onto your cabbage and toss it until it totally coats the vegetable.



Take your meat and potatoes out of the oven and serve them all on heated plates.

Recipe LXXX - Czech-style Braised Red Cabbage with Roast Pork, Brussels Sprouts and Carrots

On 28th December, I will be returning to my true home, the place I feel most like me, the place that loves me like a favourite aunt, Prague. I will only be there for six days, but the knowledge I will return to Base Camp is what keeps me going every day through the dark hours. The Czech Republic is one of Europe's best-kept secrets when it comes to food. I decided to recreate one of the dishes that will fill my stomach when I arrive.

Ingredients for the cabbage:
1 red cabbage
1 piece of fennel, sliced, but not too small
10 peppercorns
2 apples, chopped
1 onion, cut into rings
1 glass cherry schnapps
1 litre beef stock, warmed up
1 knob of butter
(Sultanas are also good with this dish! You are also welcome to add other things that would suit it: red onions or shallots, parsnip, pumpkin,  whatever...)


Instructions:
Take a large saucepan and melt some butter in the bottom on a medium-low heat. Add the fennel, a little salt and stir until it sweats. Then the onions and peppercorns. Finally, add the apples 2 minutes before you put in the red cabbage. Stir continuously.



Add the cabbage and continue stirring for a good 5 minutes. This allows the vegetables to get softer without burning.



Put in a good 20cl of fruit schnapps. I used cherry, as it's also a red fruit. Allow it to bubble in the bottom, then continue stirring.



Add the beef stock and put on the lid. Turn the heat right down and allow everything to run for as long as two hours, always checking the liquid level. With the right saucepan, nothing should escape, and you should end up with a truly delicious jus.



I served it with roast pork belly with crackling, roast carrots and Brussels sprouts.



To get a hard roast pork skin:
All you need to do is put the oven on at a low 150°C, cut your pork skin at each end a couple of gashes (this hardens it more easily), not forgetting to rub salt over it, baste your pork in the oil, put the pork in the baking tray with the skin facing upwards, leave some butter on top of it and allow it to melt in the oven. After 45 minutes, you can add the sliced carrots and baste the pork a little more. After an hour, turn the heat up to 200°C. For extra crackliness to the skin, spread some honey or caramel on it 10 minutes before removing it from the oven.

To get a tasty Brussels sprout:
After boiling in salt water, pour out the water and put a knob of butter in the pan. Once sizzling, add the sprouts, stirring constantly. Put in some ground black pepper and grate some nutmeg over it.